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Lots of people have floated the Kenai River, the upper
river can even get crowded on a summer weekend.
I wanted to do something different; I wanted to
float the entire Kenai River from start to finish! Starting at the
outlet of Kenai Lake, thru the upper river and the Kenai Canyon, motoring
thru 15 miles of Skilak Lake and then back into the lower portion of the
Kenai River, thru the Naptown Rapids and all the way to the mouth of the
river at Cook Inlet. At first, Shanna was a little reluctant, but
then she started to get her a little excited about a 3-day float down the
85 miles of the entire Kenai River. She decided this was a notch she
wanted in her belt and the plans were made. My hand was still
recovering from surgery required after the bear hunting
adventure. I decided my hand was strong enough to make this trip
using oars and we could trade off the "raft commander" job as
necessary to give it a break. We knew we might even get to see some
bears. We NEVER imagined bears would be a daily and nightly
occurrence for the entire trip!
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August 7, 2005 - Day 1
The weather was perfect, sunny and warm; not a cloud in the
sky.
We loaded up our red salmon fishing gear and the ultra lights, for
trout fishing with beads. Loren, our neighbor, picked us and our
equipment up at 1:00 PM, as planned.
We made the 40 minute drive to Cooper Landing and soon we were waving
good-bye. We fired up the 8 HP Honda outboard to give it a test. So
far it was looking good; about 4 MPH was the best we could get without
torquing the raft too much. We stopped at the Russian and Kenai River
confluence to fish a bit. We couldn’t see a SINGLE red salmon in
the mouth of the Russian. I fished just below the confluence and
hooked into quite a few, but I didn’t get any to the shore. While I was
fishing one of the resident brown bear cubs showed up at the confluence.
When I saw it, it had a whole red salmon in it’s mouth. Shanna told me
later that a guy had said, “Watch this,” to his family and threw the
salmon to the bear. Nice……now this bear will know EXACTLY where to go
for her next meal.
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We departed the confluence and worked our way
thru the Kenai Canyon. It was more exciting than we remembered. The motor
creaked the entire way thru the rapids as the raft was bouncing up and
down. We were approaching Skilak Lake and started getting REALLY serious
about finding a campsite. Shanna finally identified a gravel bar island
that she liked, we walked it and checked it out. It looked good, so
we set up camp and found firewood. I tried casting my bead for
trout, but didn’t do any good. We drank some beers around the campfire
and went off to bed around 11:30.
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August 8, 2005 - Day 2
We had some excitement during the night. It started around 12:30 AM
when I was awakened by a baby bear making bawling sounds. Sleeping a
little lighter now, I woke again, this time to the sound of heavy
footsteps in the gravel right outside our tent! I was thinking,
"Here we go." I nudged Shanna awake and quietly told her
we had a visitor. I sat up in the tent and yelled “HEY, HEY!”
and clapped my hands. Suddenly, there was a burst of gravel flying,
then splashing sounds as something large left our island. We then
heard thumping sounds as it ran across the hard ground on the other side.
I got up and went out of the tent with my revolver drawn while Shanna
located the bear spray. Peace had returned to the night and I didn’t
hear anything else. Shanna noticed that as soon as I walked more than 10
feet from the tent she couldn't hear my steps anymore, so our visitor had
been very close. Once back inside the tent, I realized how dry my
mouth was; the whole event had been pretty scary. Shanna was actually back
asleep before I was. I woke several more times during the
night.
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We were underway around 9:30 AM and started our
long journey across the lake. Skilak Lake is known for developing
some pretty large waves in the afternoons, so a morning start was
necessary. Shanna immediately began spotting black bears along the
south shore of Skilak Lake. We took lots of bear video. 3 ½ hours
after leaving our camp and the mountains behind, we re-entered the Kenai
River and the flat country. We started trout fishing upon
entering the Kenai in the area we now know as "The Scallops;"
almost immediately I had a small trout on. We caught several more
trout and some dolly varden. We decided to set up camp next to a
very productive looking red salmon riverbank. The water was so clear you
could just see them streaming past, 100's of reds. On shore, there were
trails everywhere (bear trails). I even had to kick some bear scat
off the bank into the river to clean up the camp. EVERY possible
campsite we checked out had bear sign. I picked up a VERY bright
chrome sockeye for dinner that still had some sea lice on it. We continued
to fish the bank for quite some time with poor results, despite seeing so
many fish. To top it off, I fell down and soaked the inside of my
waders.
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August 9, 2005 - Day 3
Of course our last night on the river couldn't be bear free.
Around midnight we heard a boat pull up down the river bank about 100 yds
away to fish for reds in the dark. They were close enough we could hear
them talking. Soon I heard the unmistakable huffing sound of a
bear! One guy said to the other, “did you see him?“, “did you
see the bear?” I heard the sound of them throwing their
anchor in the boat and motoring away immediately after. Shanna then
spent a while staring out the door of the tent after that. The night
was peaceful after that until..........We awoke to the sounds of drift
boats landing in our camp. A drift boat pulled up on either side of our
raft and disgorged there passengers into our camp to pee. I couldn’t
believe it, they were walking 10 ft from our tent as we looked out the
door way at them. The guides claimed there wasn’t another place to let
them out. Later, when we continued down river we found this to
be bullshit. It was really incredible.
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Later in the day we saw a park ranger boat coming straight at us. He
asked for our registration. It soon became apparent we didn’t have the
proper registration for a raft with a “motor” mounted on the back. He
took my fishing and drivers license and had us meet him down the river
where he wrote out a ticket that he said would turn to a warning if I
properly registered the raft within 5 days. We don't use the
outboard on the raft much and hadn't even thought about needing a full
motorized boat registration and AK numbers down the side of the
raft.
Our next challenge was the Naptown Rapids, these rapids are category
II-III white water. We had lot's of fun as we hooted and hollered
our way thru the rapids with people cheering us on from the river
bank. The last day was a lot of miles, unfortunately we had to run
the outboard quite a bit to make our appointed meeting time.
Loren and his wife Glenda picked us up precisely on time at the Kenai City
dock.
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